Monday, 29 April 2013

Via Dolorosa where you trace the footsteps of Jesus from trial, crucifixion to burial


I have been quite slow lately in writing up my post on the rest of my trip in Middle East. And I'm starting to think "will I ever be able to finish this blog on the whole trip??" as it's just been taking too long. There were just too many topics to cover and too many photos to sort out. A lesson well learnt now, so next time around I will definitely not go crazy in snapping everything everyday on a trip. 

So, normally people start the Via Dolarosa from Lion's Gate, but because of last minute plan, I've decided to do this after my Western Wall Tunnel tour, so I kind of jumped my way from where I came out from the tunnel tour. With the aid of the tourist map I've got from information centre, I did try to locate Station I, but I failed, was turning map around and around and I still couldn't find my way to the 1st station of Via Dolarosa. The alleyways were confusing even though I am good at reading maps, somehow for this one I just failed totally haha. So instead of wasting more time, I went to a souvenir store nearby to get directions. The guy tried his best to communicate in English with me, but I didn't quite get it all, so instead of finding Station I, I accidentally walked my way to Station II first.
this was where I came out from the tunnel tour, it was also the Ecce Homo Arch between stations 2 and 3
walking through this road to Station II
Found Station II first
Station II -- The Monastery of the Flagellation where Jesus was given the cross.
As you can see there weren't many people there, so it just made it even harder to find a local there at that time of day to ask for directions. But after seeing Station II, I was able to locate myself on the map so I just worked backwards to I. Station I was hidden up a stairways, next to some stalls, which was not very visible unless if you looked up when checking out the nearby buildings.
Station I -- The place where Pontius Pilate's judgment hall once stood and Jesus was condemned to death.
Good thing about walking the Way of The Cross namely Via Dolarosa was you get to see pretty much all four quarters in The Old City of Jerusalem and many historical sites. Added bonus were the numerous souks stores scattered around alleyways, so you can always spare some time to check out Middle Eastern handmade products and souvenirs on your way. The market streets are noisy with modern pilgrims and shopkeepers trying to lure them into their stores. (TIP: but you MUST bargain as they usually quote the object's price at least 40% more than what they were worth). And don't get intimidated by all the yelling and shouting that were going on, as each shopkeepers were trying their best to get your attention to buy something from their shops.
many similar looking stores were opened up throughout these alleyways
interior of a shop selling Jewish objects
the shop owner invited me in to checkout his shop interior as it has an original wall of an old church (all authentic) and he got me to take a photo sitting on one of their not for sale item 
amazing ceiling with all the decorative motives inside the same shop
some random carpets for sale
Via Dolarosa
a "hand" knock knock
a narrow alleyway leading to armenian quarter
Station IV -- Where Mary came out of the crowd to see her son.
Somehow I either forgot to capture Station III or I just missed it, anyway as I made my way to Station IV it was located at Armenian Church of Our Lady of the Spasm, this was where Mary watched her son go by with the cross. And after checking the amazing fifth century floor mosaic inside the church, I cruised my way through buzzling Arab souq before I reached Station V which was located on the corner where Via Dolorosa began to narrow as it goes uphill.
lots of belly dancing outfits for sale in the Muslims quarter
many hand carved wooden Christian decor objects for sale
lots to see and buy in the souq
a fascinating store that sells handmade broom head only
one of the must buy item from Jerusalem - hand painted plates / magnets
some traditional hand embroidery outfits
scented wooden rosary
Station V -- Simon the Cyrene was taken out of the crowd by the Romans to help Jesus carry the cross.
At the top of the hilly path from Station 5 is Station 6, where it was believed from the 14th century, St. Veronica wiped Jesus' face with her handkerchief, leaving an image of his face imprinted on the cloth.
more traditional hand painted homewares
Station VI -- Recalls the tradition of Veronica stepping up to Jesus and wiping his face.
continue through the souk you will find Station VII
Station VII -- Where Jesus fell for the second time
And continued walking at the Via Dolorosa's junction with Souq Khan al-Zeit was where I found station VII with a very architecturally metal structured roof. This station was also where Franciscan chapel was located. This was a very busy T-junction with people walking by carrying loads of things they bought inside the souq, and many kids riding bicycle rushing to the other side of souq making delivery of things.

There were so many yelling and bargaining going on from stores to store, it was really hard to keep myself on track with walking the path of the sorrow. All the stores I walked passed, the locals did their best attempts in guessing where I was from, from "ni hao" to "konnichiwa" to "namaste".....it was quite stressful trying to correct each of them on the way and then I ended up just gave up to whatever they liked to greet me with. And I was checking out almost every stores I walked past. And not far from Station VII across the market street and up the steps of Aqabat al-Khanqah opposite the souvenir bazaar was Station VIII.
Station VIII -- The place where Jesus consoled the women of Jerusalem
more glittering bronzeware that kept my eyes looking
more hand woven carpet from Palestine
sheesha in different sizes, and kafiya for sale
Hamsa in different designs
a very small doorway in cast iron that leads you to a church courtyard
the other side of the small doorway
the courtyard inside
And then there was the most difficult Station to find i.e. Station IX, I ended up buying the famous pomegranate fresh squeezed juice, asking the juicebar man for direction before being able to get decent direction to the site. Surprisingly the pomegranate juice was refreshing and tasted better then I thought, and I would recommend to those happened to walked past and just stop for a drink or two. It was a confusing route across souq khan al-zeit and I had to climb 28 stone steps at the Coptic Patriarchate that leaded to Station IX. It was here where Jesus had the third fall.
shop owner using special juice squeezer to get the juice out from the pomegranate
refreshing pomegranate juice without any added sugar
alleyway that leaded to Station IX
Station IX -- Where Jesus fell for the third time.
The cupola seen on the right is the top of the underground Armenian Chapel of St Helen.
With the 9th station located adjacent to the Holy Sepulcher - the tomb of Jesus.Station X is a fairly short walk. Station 10 is located at the entrance of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre,  in the room called the Chapel of the Franks. It was here where Jesus was stripped off his clothes.
Church of the Holy Sepulchre where station X- XIV were located
After visiting Station X I came back out from the small chapel and enter the Church of the Holy Sepulchre via the main entrance. Inside was packed with pilgrims reading verses and singing while holding bibles and wooden crosses. The church interior was massive with many levels and stairways leading to different rooms. 

Meanwhile, station XI was also located inside this church, it was here where Jesus was nailed to the cross - the place of crucifixion.
Station XI - place of crucifixion
Station XII marked the place where Jesus was crucified and died on the cross. The location of this Station XII is a Greek Orthodox crucifixion altar which was also inside the Church of Holy Sepulcher. There were a queue lining up for pilgrims to kneel and kiss the spot which was marked by a silver disk with a central hole underneath the altar, the was the exact location where the Cross stood.
Pilgrims singing and reading versus as they go
Station XII - pilgrims kneeled and kissed the spot where Jesus was crucified and died on the cross
The silver icons of Virgin Mary and St John are on Jesus side.
 The route wasn't clearly marked at all inside Church of the Holy Sepulchre so I just followed the pilgrims as they go. And you will find that there will be a long queue lining up in front of each stations, as there was up to half an hour wait just to get a glimpse or touch of each significant spots. So the next station I visited was the second last one Station XIII, this was the place where the body of Jesus was laid on the stone after being removed from the cross. When I was there, pilgrims were kneeling, praying, kissing and rubbing their rosaries, handkerchief and all kind of small belongings on this stone as it was believed to be blessed.
Station XIII - The spot where Jesus' body was taken down
each of the lamps were donated by one denominations
 
me in pic with a new friend I made (Nicolene standing in the background)
Finally I reached the last Station of Via Dolorosa, Station XIV. And it was a place that won't be missed as it was located in the round hall with the longest queue in the church. This was the place of the tomb of Jesus and it was located in the center of the circle.I remembered it took around half an hour lining up before being able to walk inside the chamber to visit the tomb of Jesus. And I got totally carried away with chatting to a new friend Nicolene I made on the spot who was a solo female traveler queuing in front of me. I always find it exciting meeting new friends in any journey especially when you get to share the traveling experience with each other and stories on the way.
the dome ceiling located above the centre of the tomb
lining up to see Station XIV


The first chamber is called the Chapel of the Angel. Behind the Chapel is another narrow door which leads to a smaller inner chamber - the tomb of Jesus.
ornaments at Chapel of the Angel
  
large mosaic floors inside Church of the Holy Sepulchre

So that ended my whole journey for Via Dolorosa (the Way of the Sorrows), being not the most religious person in the world I still found this walk and experience well worth the time and energy. I had never visited sooooo many churches in one day of my life, I saw so many that I've lost count already throughout the Via Dolorosa but this Way of the Sorrows should be included in your itinerary regardless if you are Christian or not. And you might be as lucky as I am as I had made a number of great friends on this trip in Jerusalem.
Station I -- The place where Pontius Pilate's judgment hall once stood and Jesus was condemned to death.
Station II -- The Monastery of the Flagellation where Jesus was given the cross.
Station III -- The spot where Jesus fell under the weight of the cross for the first time.
Station IV -- Where Mary came out of the crowd to see her son.
Station V -- Simon the Cyrene was taken out of the crowd by the Romans to help Jesus carry the cross.
Station VI -- Recalls the tradition of Veronica stepping up to Jesus and wiping his face.
Station VII -- Where Jesus fell for the second time.
Station VIII -- The place where Jesus consoled the women of Jerusalem.
Station IX -- Where Jesus fell for the third time.
Station X -- Jesus is stripped of his garments.
Station XI -- Jesus is nailed to the cross.
Station XII -- The place where Jesus died on the cross.
Station XIII -- The spot where Jesus' body was taken down.
Station XIV -- The tomb of Jesus.
(the above info was extracted from the courtesy of Virtual Isarael Experience website)